Mumbai’s Hidden Café Culture: Irani Icons, Heritage By-Lanes & Cozy Coffee Escapes Across The City

Fancy a soulful meal with dear ones or a quiet dinner date, right in the bustling streets and suburbs of Mumbai yet away from the hoi-polloi of the megapolis?

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The answer lies in the meandering alleys. From South Bombay through Lower Parel’s Mills converted into restaurants, Bandra to far-flung western suburbs, the intricate urban mazes swarm with cozy, casual eating joints where the persistent drone of traffic melts to garner a relaxed, intimate mood.

Iconic Irani cafes of yore

Irani Cafes often found in various corners – yes, you will mostly find them in ground-level prominent corner spots of colonial-era structures of the city – are the OG archetypal eateries of Mumbai. Grandfather clocks, checkered flooring, bentwood chairs and marble-top tables with the typical chalked-out list of bun maska, kheema pav, khaari chai, raspberry soda and the fresh aroma of mawa cakes evoke the legendary multicultural magic of the Bombay of yesteryears. These cafes reminiscent of a bygone era are a vanishing space in today’s jing-bang, many have transitioned from an Iranian eatery to a buzzing haunt with an international menu.

South Bombay sojourn

Kala Ghoda in South Bombay is an art enthusiast’s nibbana. With heritage buildings, colonial architecture the area is not only popular for its art and culture-oriented vibes but houses illustrious cafes in its narrow by-lanes. Ashrita Bose, an art lover enthuses, “The cosy, 18-seater Kala Ghoda Café with indulgent ginger-carrot cake, waffles and stimulating fresh brews, evinces vintage aesthetics along with its walls that double up as a gallery for art displays. I visit Milado Café too for its curated art events besides their irresistible home-style Parsi food.” Zen Café sports a split-level layout with an unpretentious décor in neutral tones, serving crafted coffees, innovative tea infusions and exotic global cuisine. The conversation hub Boojee Café, both in Kala Ghoda and off Perry Cross Road, are known for the rustic Instagram-worthy ambiance, and fresh bakes.

Fashion designer James Ferriera’s efforts to keep the 200-year-old heritage village Khotachiwadi in Girgaum pertinent, includes pop-ups, where socialites manoeuvre the cobbled pathways in their luxury Jimmy Choos and Pradas for a taste of East Indian food.

Slink & Bardot, a venture by Riyaz Amlani, tucked away in the non-descript Worli’s fishing village has a dedicated upmarket clientele who vouch for its cocktails and French cuisine. The enterprising restaurateur reveals, “Ten years back, by-lanes were not as fashionable. I wanted to create a grown-up cocktail bar minus a high rental. Thadani House had a lot of character and part of the magic was the strange approach enhanced the experience to the place.”

Bandra buzz

The tranquil by-lanes of Bandra carry layers of history, culture and community. Speaking about the 90-year-old red Indo-Portuguese heritage bungalow Scarlett House, in which the city’s profound history can be felt, Dhaval Udeshi, founder DU Hospitality, shares, “These bylanes have seen generations pass, stories evolve, and identities remain intact. Scarlett House belongs to that fabric, the quiet dignity that only lived-in architecture carries. A house rooted in emotion, memory, heritage, and community. It doesn’t try to reinvent the neighbourhood- it becomes part of it, which visitors love to discover.”

Diners love cosying up in vintage spots with architectural elegance like the bi-level Pali Village Café; Love Fools nestled in a serene by-lane where time lingers, allowing to feel the sensory experience of dining; Taj Mahal Tea House in Mount Mary, masked in a cosy indigo-hued bungalow with mosaic tiles, cane chairs, lacy drapes and indigo crockery is known for its Parsi mint tea, Silken tofu akuri. Architect Smita Shah and her friends vouch for Steps Café off Peter Dias Road, Mount Mary, for its melange of nature, art and nosh set in peaceful environs.

The historic Ranwar Village houses Riyaz Amlani’s café, Veronica’s where people unwind in its ‘happy’ space, scrumptious sandwiches, coffee and wine. Mokai Café nearby is known for its katsu sandwiches and hawker-style wontons. The health-conscious find their way to Yoga House, cocooned in the quiet Sherly Rajan Road, offering yoga and mindfulness classes along with healthy food.

Farther west

Bombay to Barcelona Library Café, run by rescued street kids of Mumbai, in a sheltered by-lane in Marol, Andheri, with its collection of books, an array of fusion dishes, an enchanting décor hosts exhibitions and cultural activities too.

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Cat Café Studio in Aram Nagar, Versova is another quirky location where feline enthusiasts find harmony away from urban frenzy. Riyaz Amlani observes, “Versova Social located in the fishing village is much appreciated by peace-loving folks who seek tranquil environs.”

One8 Commune overhauls legendary and reclusive singer late Kishore Kumar’s bungalow in a posh cushy backstreet of Juhu to create a space with European-style interiors, textured walls, rustic charm, curated multi-cuisine and a dominant wall with Virat Kohli’s autograph.

Enjoy these ‘homely’ escapes in earthy settings which stand in stark contrast to a whirlwind city life!

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